Walking Through Korean Christian History: Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine and Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery

 


Walking Through Korean Christian History: Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine and Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery

A Quiet Trail by the Han River

On a calm, rainy day in June, I set out on a quiet walk along the Han River in Seoul. The heat had kept me indoors for days, but the gentle drizzle that morning made it perfect for a reflective stroll.


My first destination was Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine, a solemn place honoring Korean Catholics who were executed during the Byeongin Persecution of 1866. The original name of this hill was Jamdubong, or "Silkworm Head Hill," but it later became known as Jeoldusan, meaning "Beheading Mountain."



Inside the shrine, sculptures and memorial stones remember the many who gave their lives for their faith. Among them were Maria Kim Yeppeun and Francisco Yi Eui-song, a married couple who died as martyrs. Some names are remembered; many remain unknown.

Across the Road: A Cemetery of Foreign Missionaries

After leaving Jeoldusan, I crossed the road to visit the Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery. Though less known to many, this site is the final resting place for numerous Western missionaries who came to Korea in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Among those buried here are figures like Horace G. Underwood and Henry Appenzeller, who contributed to Korea’s early education and religious life. Many came with their families, and together they lived—and often died—in service of others.





Back to Jeoldusan, and Looking Forward

Returning to Jeoldusan, I visited the main church and museum. A statue of Jesus Christ stands at the entrance, flanked by a museum on one side and a worship space on the other. Regardless of your beliefs, the museum is worth visiting. It reminds us that, for many, worship was once a life-or-death declaration of faith.


Behind the church stands a memorial to St. Andrew Kim Taegon, the first Korean Catholic priest. Nearby, a sculpted pathway depicts the final moments of Christ’s Passion—from arrest to resurrection.



As I stood there, looking out over the Han River, I thought: The view must have looked similar to those who stood here over a century ago—waiting to die for what they believed.


A Brief Glimpse of Korea’s Struggles with Modernization

In the same grounds stands a replica of the infamous Chukhwabi, an anti-Western stele that reads:

“If you do not fight the Western barbarians, you must be agreeing with them, which is the same as selling out your country.”



It is a painful reminder of Korea’s complicated history with Western powers. While resistance seemed inevitable at the time, one wonders if things could have turned out differently with a more open path.

How to Visit These Sites

  • 📍 Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine: Mapo-gu, Seoul (near Hapjeong Station, Exit 7)

  • 📍 Yanghwajin Cemetery: Located directly across the road

  • 💡 Admission is free; English materials available at the museum

Location: 대한민국 서울특별시 마포구 양화진길 46

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